On the subject of calories not counting when you’re traveling (you knew that, right?)
On the left of the image is an Okie Benny — a biscuit topped with a poached egg, cheese, friend country ham, and gravy, then accompanied by hash browns. This is available at a restaurant in Norman, Oklahoma, called Neighborhood Jam. Mom and I went there on a recent visit, and I ordered this because it provided a satisfying answer to an important breakfast-ordering question: “What does the gravy come with?”
The Norman outpost of Neighborhood Jam used to offer their version of the Denco Darlin’ (on the right), a dish so legendary it has its own Facebook page. It was a fitting tribute considering they are located next door to where Denco’s Mexican Cafe used to be. Denco’s was a popular last stop on the way home for students who’d been out for an evening, with the Darlin’ serving as a sort of pre-hangover folk remedy or a brace-yourself eating challenge for the unsuspecting. It’s a variation of spaghetti red (spaghetti topped with beef chili instead of tomato sauce), only with macaroni as the base pasta. For the fried egg topping, the server would ask, “One looking at you or two?” My dad told me about it.
I wouldn’t be surprised if today there were more people who have heard of the Denco Darlin’ than actually had one at the original place, which closed in 1981 when I was a junior at OU. I wouldn’t be surprised if there were some people who feel compelled to claim to have eaten one, for better social standing. And I wouldn’t be surprised if most of those who really did have a few Darlins’ at Denco’s, only did so between, say, midnight and 4 am. Like me. But just a couple of times.
The Darlin’ isn’t offered on the current Neighborhood Jam menu. Maybe it’s one of those secret items that certain people know to request. I haven’t asked about it but I don’t think I’d order it anyway. First, there’d be no way to get one between midnight and 4 am (the place is breakfast/brunch only and closes at 2:30. That’s “pm.”) More importantly, if that photo is accurate, there was clearly something missing from their version of the dish. The whole thing should be gliding on an iridescent orange puddle where the grease from the chili seeped through the macaroni to the plate, so the whole thing looks like a devil angel’s version of a Floating Island.
By the way, Neighborhood Jam has several locations in central Oklahoma, none more than a half hour’s drive (depending on traffic) from Baptist Medical Center in Oklahoma City, home to one of the most innovative and well-respected heart hospitals in the entire world.